Mechanical engineering | Vehicles » 9XX Timing Belt Removal and Replacement

9XX Timing Belt Removal & Replacement When youre working from the topside of the engine, do NOT brace yourself against, or lay upon the intake manifold or the plenum/ airbox. If you do, at a minimum, you may flex a joint and create an air leak that will drive you nuts trying to diagnose later. Worst case, the fuel injection intake manifolds (later Esprits) are known to crack. Replacements are out of production/ out of inventory, and if you do find a used one, they are very expensive. Esprit owners could pull the engine, but thats a ton more work. If you have to ask how to replace the timing belt, then you’re not prepared for removing and replacing the engine and transmission. If you read this document, and replacing the belt with the engine in the car begins to sound to you like a lot of work, then brace yourself, because removing and replacing the engine is going to be more work. I recommend doing the job with the engine in place Bolts & bits you remove should be put in

plastic bags, which are then marked with from where the contents came. Take lots of before photos with a digital camera, you cant take too many. Never trust your memory Planning Ahead – Auxiliary Pulley Timing For engines equipped with distributors, the auxiliary pulley’s position is critical to ignition timing. Change how the pulley is indexed on the timing belt, and you change the ignition timing. For later 910’s with crank triggered ignition, this is a non-issue skip over this section. The Auxiliary pulley has a timing dot on it’s rim that’s used for indexing the auxiliary pulley (in addition to the dots used for timing the cams). The standard procedure is for that dot to be facing forward, and the pulley turned so the dot is at about the five o’clock position and lies on the centerline between the Auxiliary Shaft and the Crankshaft. Given the distance between those two shafts, and the other bits between them, it can be difficult to accurately index the Aux pulley. In an

Esprit, working between the engine and the firewall, the degree of difficulty goes up another notch. The following alternative method requires that you place some paint marks on the Intake Cam Pulley and Auxiliary Pulley before starting to dismantle things. The downside is that later it will only replicate the current setting. If the timing is off now, it will be off later when you get it all back together. Check the ignition timing before starting. If you like where it is, then proceed with the following If the timing is wrong now by more than can be adjusted at the distributor (ie, the pulley needs to be indexed on the belt), then it’s best that you abandon this method before you start, and plan on following the book method later. Set the crank to TDC with the cam pulley timing dots properly aligned and on the centerline between the cams. Then put a paint mark on one of the teeth on the intake cam pulley where it’s easily visible. On the mid-engine Esprit, that’s on the

back side, toward the top of the pulley. Do the same on the aux pulley Its not important which two teeth, just as long as each is in the area where the belt is in full contact with the pulley and not lifting away from the tangent point. I choose teeth as close together as possible while still in full contact with the pulley. Now, count the number of belt teeth between the intake paint mark to the auxiliary paint mark, and write it down the number where you wont lose it. Its good to take a digital photo of the paint marks for future reference, and write on a print. *~~~ Caution, most cleaners/ degreasers will quickly remove a paint mark. If youre going to clean the pulleys, then dont wipe off your paint marks, or the factory painted timing dimples. *~~~ Later, when you install the timing belt, confirm the crank is at TDC and get the belt started on the cam pulleys with the dots aligned on the centerline. Then count belt teeth from your paint mark on the Intake cam over to the painted

tooth on the aux pulley, and slip the belt onto the pulley in that position. Dis-Assembly: On Esprit Turbos, remove the fiberglass under tray from the bottom of the engine bay. Working from the top side, remove the thermostat housing and the hose that runs across the top-front of the engine bay above the alternator. Disconnect the battery’s (+) cable. Remove the alternator and its triangular support bracket. Earlier engines, like the 907, don’t have the triangle bracket, but all 910 Turbo engines do. The V-belt definitely has to go, but removing the alternator itself is just a matter of making work room. Removing and replacing it don’t take long, and subsequent steps are easier with it gone. In the Bosch fuel injected 910 models, remove the black plastic fuel injection hoses that run across the front of the engine bay. That’s optional to a degree, but they are really in the way and vulnerable to damage. It takes less time to remove them than it does to talk yourself into doing

it. The Bosch fuel lines are pressurized to 95 psi and the accumulator bleeds down slowly after the engine is switched off, so presume the lines are fully pressurized. Wrap a rag around a fitting while you slowly crack it loose Allow the pressure to vent slowly before just spinning the bolt out. Each banjo bolt fitting has a small aluminum crush washer for sealing. Be sure to pick them off as well. Order replacement crush washers avoid re-using the old ones Remove the V-belt from the vacuum and water pumps. The vacuum pump tensioning bolts are difficult to access. For them, buy a regular "L" shaped Allen wrench plus a GearWrench of the same size (Sears sells GearWrench brand). I think its 8mm for the adjuster. ?? measure first Using a hacksaw, cut off of a stub of Allen wrench about 5/8" to 3/4" long and stick it into the cap screw head, turning it into a male Allen drive. Then put the GearWrench on the Allen stub That way you can access it from the side instead

of head-on, and the GearWrenchs ratchet action avoids the need to re-position the wrench one flat at a time. Sears usually stocks a variety of GearWrench styles in each size: stubby, regular, long, flex-head, etc. Buy the longest one you can get Those cap screws are usually pretty darned tight, and a standard 8mm wrench is too short to give you much leverage. Buy a long one Loosen the A/C belt tensioner’s pinch bolt and pivot bolt. Remove the V-belt That can be easier said than done. It’s easier if the tensioner is completely removed. Then pull the bottom run of belt forward, hooking it on the outer edge of the compressor’s pulley. Force it as far as you can A screw driver between the belt and pulley rim can be used as a lever. When it won’t go any further, put a 19mm (3/4”), half inch drive ratchet on the crank pulley bolt, and manually turn the engine over, walking the belt off the AC pulley. V-belts are cheap. As long as youre going to remove them anyway, plan to install

new ones later. In that case, removing the old ones goes much faster if you use a utility knife. Its a good idea to have the new belts on hand before cutting the old ones. Remove the V-belt pulley from the front of the crankshaft. Have a helper put the transmission is 5th gear, release the clutch and stand on the brakes while you loosen the bolt. Try to pull the pulley off by hand. If it’s stuck, try tapping it forward with a plastic or rubber mallet. The pulley is aluminum, so don’t go after it with a big steel hammer. There’s some room to pry at it, but nothing really solid to pry against if real brute force is required. Don’t go breaking other expensive bits Patience, penetrating oil (Kroil is the best), and heat may be required. If you do use heat, be careful not to direct it behind the pulley where it may damage the front main seal. For the same reason, don’t get the overall mass too hot. Use heat on the pulley only, and in moderation If the pulley is well and truly

corroded onto the front of the crank, this could be the nastiest part of the whole job. Especially since most 9XX installations don’t have enough room in front of the engine to permit the use of a large 3-jaw puller. Make a note for later always install the front crank pulleys, both the V-belt pulley and the small toothed timing belt pulley, with a liberal application of AntiSeize. On the up side, more often than not, the pulley comes off without much fuss. Removing the Timing Belt: If the belt is to be replaced with a new one, then the simple expedient to removal is to cut it with a utility knife. Same with the V-belts However, it’s best to have the replacements on hand before cutting. If the belt is to be re-installed, then draw an arrow on it indicating it’s present direction of operation. The cord body takes a set during use Once run in, the belt’s direction of operation should never be changed. If it is to be re-installed, then take pains to install it the same way it was

before it was removed. If you forget to do that, then buy a new belt rather than gamble on getting it wrong. Set the crank to TDC with the cam pulley timing dots adjacent and aligned on the centerline between the cams. If the dots end up on far opposite sides of the cam pulleys, then turn the crank through one more full revolution and back to TDC (ie, the cams turn as 1/2 revolution for each crank revolution). Always turn the crank in it’s normal operating direction. Never go backwards There’s no direct timing risk related to going backwards, but there are a variety of secondary ills that can occur. There are different ills for different iterations of the 9XX engine. Rather than getting into each condition, I’ll just say that always turning the crank in the normal operating direction is a safe habit to practice. If the engine is equipped with an eccentric timing belt tensioner, then loosen the pinch bolt and then turn the eccentric to the maximum loose position, giving you the

most belt slack possible with which to work (it’s still not much). If the engine is equipped with the spring loaded, semi-automatic timing belt tensioner, the piston must be retracted and pinned prior to removing the belt. Back out the tension adjusting screw until there is approximately 12mm of exposed thread. Don’t go too far or the threads will disengage and the internal springs will shoot it out. Do not have your head down in the line of fire, and good luck finding the adjuster later. There’s a 4mm hole in the front side of the tensioner, either above or below the piston bore. A locking pin is inserted through the hole to engage a groove cut around the piston, locking the piston in place. The hole’s location changed through the years. It may be above or below the piston bore, it may be exposed and to the right of the lower mounting bolt, or it may be hidden under one of the mounting bolt washers. If it’s under a washer, more often than not it’s under the lower

washer but not always. With the other bolt torqued tightly enough to hold the tensioner in position, remove the bolt and washer that hide the locking pin hole. Start a 4mm pin in the hole (I use a snug fit drill bit shank), wiggling it along with an inward pressure. Place one hand on the timing belt mid-way between the intake and auxiliary pulley and push down firmly. The additional pressure on the belt will retract the tensioner’s piston into the bore. When the piston’s groove aligns with the hole, the pin should drop in with some effort and wiggling. Make certain the pin is fully engaged, then release the hand pressure on the timing belt. In either case, with the timing belt now fully slack, slide it forward off the two cam pulleys, the auxiliary pulley, the tensioner and the crankshaft sprocket. If the task at hand is to simply install a new timing belt, then start that now. However, if there is other work to be done, then there’s some risk of the crank inadvertently being

rotated enough to bring a piston into contact with some valves and possibly bending the valves. The safe thing to do is to turn the crank back to 90 BTDC. That puts all the pistons half way down their bores and well away from the valves. Tasks to be considered at this point are: 1) Rebuild the Water Pump. 2) Replace the front main seal. 3) Replace the cam seals 4) Replace the Auxiliary shaft seal. 5) Check the valve clearances, and shim the valves if required. 6) Replace the tensioner bearing. 7) Rebuild the semi-automatic tensioner 8) Re-set the emissions cam timing to the design timing, installing new cam pulleys as required. Install the Timing Belt: The small toothed sprocket on the crank has a cupped washer behind it. A raised boss on the back face of the sprocket telescopes through the washer, then the sprocket pinches the washer back against a step on the crankshaft. If the sprocket has been disturbed or removed, then it’s common for the washer to slip off the sprocket’s

raised boss, and drop down behind it. Make certain the washer is properly seated. If the old timing belt is not being removed, and the bolt securing the front V-belt pulley was never loosened, then the washer has not been free to move. The above washer is cupped rather than flat. As it extends out beyond the sprocket’s OD, it also curves back away from the sprocket, forming a funnelguide for the timing belt. If the washer curves forward over the sprocket, then it’s on backwards. Remove the sprocket and re-position the washer If the crank sprocket needs to be removed, it can usually be pried off using two screw drivers, one per side prying simultaneously. If it’s really stuck, there are two tapped holes in the front face that accept bolts from a small puller (ie, steering wheel hub puller). Both the crank sprocket and the V-belt pulley should be installed with Anti-Seize applied to their bores, keys and the crank journals. Double check that the crank is at TDC, and that the

timing dots on the cam pulleys are adjacent to one another, and aligned on the centerline between the cams. If they are aligned, but above or below the centerline, they are still not properly timed. The dots must be BOTH aligned and on the centerline Slip the timing belt onto the small toothed sprocket on the crankshaft. Route the belt up over the tensioner pulley, and generally lay the belt up into position near the upper pulleys. Grasp the belt with both hands, one on either side of the crank sprocket. Pull upward firmly on the strands to either side of the crank, wiggling back and forth a bit as necessary to fully seat the belt teeth on the crank sprocket. Fish the slack-side strand up around the tensioner pulley and toward the auxiliary pulley. Dont put it on the auxiliary pulley yet, just have it staged there. Pull the tension-side of the belt up snug toward the exhaust cam pulley. Murphys Law probably wont allow the belt and pulley teeth to mesh perfectly, but dont pull the belt

testosterone-tight when going for a mesh. You cannot stretch the belt (!), and too much force will only rotate the crank. then youll have to go back and start over. Instead, pull the belt up taut toward the exhaust cam pulley, put a 17mm wrench on the bolt that retains the cam pulley, and turn the pulley minimally as required for a perfect mesh. Slide the belt back onto the pulley only about 3/8" to 1/2" just enough to be secure. Use the wrench to turn the pulley back in the tension direction just enough to pull slack out of the belt, but dont try to tension it (pull too hard and youll turn the crank, and/or loosen the pulley bolt). Note: The belt is very stiff side to side (in the flat plane). If it is slid all the way back onto one pulley, it will be too stiff to zig-zag back out to start on the forward face of the next pulley. Barely start the back edge of the belt on all three upper pulleys (two cam pulleys and the auxiliary pulleys) before sliding it back to fully engage

them. Pull the belt taut over to the intake pulley. Again, use the wrench to turn the intake pulley as required to meet the belt, and slide the belt 3/8" to 1/2" onto the pulley. Turn the pulley back in the tension direction just enough to pull slack out of the belt. Check the cam timing dots for any obvious mis-alignment at this point. the crank must be at TDC and the pulley dots aligned ON the centerline. Correct any error before proceeding over to the aux pulley. Engines with crank-triggered ignition (910S, Esprit SE thru S4s) don’t have to worry about the Aux pulley’s position, but engines with distributors do. Turn the Aux pulley to align the dot on the rim with the centerline between the Aux shaft and crankshaft, as noted in the manual, and as an addendum below. Or, if you made your own paint dots as suggested at the beginning, now is the time to count belt teeth from the Intake pulley paint mark to the Aux pulley paint mark. Know which teeth you need to mesh

before starting your struggle with the belt. With the timing belt on the cam pulleys on one side, and over the tensioner roller on the other side, pull all the slack from both sides of the crank pulley up and around toward the Auxiliary pulley. It can be difficult to fit the belt on the last pulley (Auxiliary pulley). The belt is nearly a net fit on the pulley circuit, and theres no excess slack to make it easy to slide it onto the last pulley. Make sure the tensioner is fully backed off so you have all the possible belt slack available. A used belt will have stretched a bit during prior use and will be easier to install; but a new, un-stretched belt can be pretty snug. HTD belts are thicker and stiffer than trapezoidal belts, and will fight you more. If the belt just will not go on the Aux pulley despite your best effort, then try this. Position yourself behind the pulleys, reaching forward to handle the belt. Start the belt onto the Aux pulley from the side facing the intake cam, and

barely hooking it over the edge of the pulley. Work it on as far around the pulley as you can before it just wont go any more. Hold the belt there with your left hand. Then, working from behind the pulley, lay the fingers of your right hand across the top of the pulley and belt, catching the far, forward edge of the belt with your first knuckle joint. Force the edge of the belt down, laying it flat over the front face of the pulley. "On-edge", the belt is stiff, and you can pull it back up, sliding it along the face of the pulley until its edge "just" clears the rim the rest of the way around. Then rotate the belt back up to horizontal while simultaneously pulling it back onto the pulley. With a little practice, you can make that one fluid motion. Doing it is not as difficult as deciphering what I just wrote. Now that the belt is started onto all the pulleys, you can slide it back fully onto all three. Adjust the tensioner to put some heavy tension on the belt,

but don’t worry about an exact amount for now. In the case of the spring loaded, semi-automatic tensioner, that means remove the locking pin, re-install the second mounting bolt and tighten them both, and screw the adjuster inward. When the tensioner pulls the slack out of the belt, sometimes the pulleys move. Normally, if you kept all the slack out of the system while installing the belt, the pulleys won’t move enough to get out of time. But dont get bummed if the first fitting requires a re-do. it happens What must not happen is to let it go uncorrected Double check that the crank is still at TDC, the cam pulley timing dots are aligned on the centerline, and count the number of teeth between the painted teeth on the two pulleys (if you’re using that method). If everything is not perfect, then note which way any pulley has to be moved on the belt, and repeat the process as necessary to get everything installed correctly. Don’t worry about small, partial tooth misalignments,

since you can only index the pulley on the belt by whole tooth increments. Get the timing correct under some tension before worrying about setting the tension to spec. The manual shows an extra dot on the pulley rim thats used for setting the Aux pulley (see the NA Workshop Manual, Section E – Engine, Page 19, or the Turbo Service Notes, Sect EB, page 10). That works okay on an engine stand where you have a good view of the front of the engine, but its not as convenient when youre working between the engine and the firewall. That dot/centerline set-up works for the Euro version of the engine. However, the federal engine uses a different ignition timing that often results in the vacuum diaphragm striking either the oil filter or the intake manifold before achieving the spec static timing. In that case, the aux pulley needs to be timed with the dot a couple of teeth off the centerline; however Lotus didnt re-draw the illustration for the Federal engine. If you wish to use the

dot/centerline method, check (better yet, PHOTOGRAPH) the relationship at TDC before taking everything apart. Note: One tooth pitch on the pulley = 18° degrees of timing. Dot Tension the Timing Belt Tension the timing belt using a gauge. There are instructions on the internet for judging the tension by hand, using the twist test. I wrote some of those messages, but I dont recommend that method to anyone who isnt already experienced and familiar with how it should feel. The down side of getting it wrong is just too great. A Krikit KR-1 isnt the best gauge, but it works, and its so inexpensive that you have no excuse not to use one. A Borroughs gauge is much more expensive, but definitely better. Belt tension is always checked at a point on the belt half way between the intake cam pulley and the auxiliary pulley, on a cold engine at room temp (59° - 77° F), with the crank at TDC, and with the cam pulley dots aligned with one another and on the centerline between the cams. All

conditions must exist at once If the engine is equipped with an eccentric tensioner, then turn the eccentric counter-clockwise as you look at the front of the engine. If the wrench handle is pointing off toward the right side of the car, push down on it. YES NO ! The eccentric will build tension in either direction. However, if it’s turned clockwise (viewed from the front), it’s prone to backing off and releasing tension, even with the pinch bolt tight. If the eccentric is turned counter-clockwise as you look at the front of the engine, then it tends to be more secure. Dont tempt fate If the engine is equipped with a spring-loaded, semi-automatic tensioner, then turning the adjusting screw inward increases the tension. The screw will end up turned almost all the way in before the specified tension is achieved. Crank a bunch of tension into the belt. Give it a good turn (over-tension it) to draw all the slack out of the system and fully seat everything. With the tension cranked

on, double check all the pulley settings. The crank is at TDC The cam pulley timing dots are aligned with one another and on the centerline between the pulleys. The auxiliary pulley position is correct With the tension still on, turn the crank through two full revolutions to seat the belt. Dont just crank it around briskly, but go slowly, feeling for anything to go, “clank”. This is your last chance to make sure all is well and no pistons are hitting valves. If something does go clank, stop and DONT force it Something is clearly wrong with the cam timing, so find it and fix it before proceeding. At the end of two revolutions, slowly approach TDC and stop without backing up or releasing the pull on the belt. If you do sense any “back-up”, go around another two revolutions and stop at TDC. The goal is to get to TDC with the full pull/ drag/ tension required to run the system still on the belt. Cams turn at 1/2 crank speed, so if you must go around again, then two revolutions

are required to get back to TDC with the cam timing dots aligned. One last time, double check that everything is aligned. Release the tensioner until the belt is relaxed, then go for the final tension setting. This is where you need a tension gauge Apply some tension to the belt, then check the tension with a gauge. Tension & check, tension & check. For a new timing belt being installed for the first time, shoot for 100 on the Borroughs gauge, or 55 on the “POUNDS” scale of a Krikit KR1. For a used belt being re-installed (one that has already stretched and taken a set), shoot for 95 Borroughs, or 52 pounds on the Krikit KR1 The semi-automatic tensioner is pretty easy. Just turn the adjuster screw until you get the desired tension, then tighten the jam nut. With the eccentric tensioner, it’s more frustrating. The resolution is not good, and you barely have to move the eccentric to make a 5 lb change in tension. It will seem like youre always over-shooting and backing up.

Then, when you get right on, its almost impossible to tighten the pinch nut securely without moving the eccentric a little. Use two wrenches at once, one on the eccentric and one on the pinch nut. Work one against the other, holding the eccentric from turning while tightening the pinch nut. Have the pinch nut snug, but not so tight that youre fighting to turn the eccentric. Tightening the pinch nut will tend to drag the eccentric along in a direction that will reduce the belt tension. So I usually set the tension about 3 lbs higher than my target, anticipating that Ill lose about that much even if Im careful. Get the tension as close as you can, then tighten the pinch nut pretty darned tight, but not final-tight. Check the tension Without loosening the pinch nut, tweak the eccentric a nudge as required to zero in on the correct reading. Then hold the eccentric fixed in position with one wrench and tighten the pinch nut securely with the other. Checking the tension requires putting

some force into the belt. Not much, but some. With all the checking you did while adjusting the tension, its possible the tension in the belt was disturbed. Remember, you had to stop at TDC without backing up in order to preserve the pull on the belt? Well, you may have screwed that up while checking the tension repeatedly. So when the tension is where you want it and the pinch nut is tight, turn the crank through two revs feeling for anything that may interfering, carefully stop at TDC without backing up and check the tension. If it passes, youre done When the timing belt is on and tensioned, then use the 17mm wrench to ensure the cam pulley bolts are tight and you didnt loosen them while turning the pulleys during the belt installation. Place a hand on the timing belt midway between the intake and aux pulleys and push down hard. That will put some additional tension to the belt to ensure that it doesnt jump timing while you tighten the bolts. Finish Up: Install all the hoses. A light

smear of “Hylomar Advanced Formulation” on the metal spigots and inside the end of the hoses will help the hose slide on more easily. Then as the Hylomar sets up, it will also help provide a leak free connection. If you have installed aftermarket silicone hoses, then use the type of clamp with two wire strands tensioned by a T-bolt. The pressure points created by the two parallel wire strands produces focused pressure points that give a better seal. The strap and worm screw type of clamp spreads the stress over more area and doesn’t produce a seal that is as secure. The water pump inlet hose is particularly difficult to install. Make sure it fully engages the metal spigot on the side of the pump housing. The spigot is short, and it’s important to get the hose on all the way. The hose also passes very close to the timing belt. Wiggle and twist it around until the hose safely clears the belt before tightening the clamp. Aggressive driving may cause the hose to move around a bit,

so take the time to position the hose such that it will never contact the belt. When you install the hose clamps, take a moment to think about orientation. Will the tightening screw end up above or below the hose, and facing left or right? From which direction will access be easier now during assembly, as well as later when everything else is installed and in the way again. Next year when you’re trying to tighten a leaky hose connection, you will thank yourself for having the clamp screw pointing in a convenient direction. Don’t forget to tighten the clamps on the large intake manifold hose (and the 5/8” elbow hose on 910 Turbos) that you connected when the water pump was installed. Install the water pump pulley. Make sure there is a split lock washer under each bolt head. On 910 Turbos through the Esprit SE, re-install the vacuum pump. Securely tighten the retaining bolts for the vac pump to water pump connection, and for the welded bracket to the engine/ sump. However,

leave the belt tensioning pivot and pinch bolts slack for now. Re-install the vacuum pump pulley, making sure there’s a split lock washer under each bolt head. Install the V-belt, preferably a new one Use a pry bar to pivot the vacuum pump, applying tension to the belt. Then use the stub of Allen wrench and a GearWrench to tighten the pinch bolt with one hand, while firmly maintaining tension with the pry bar in the other hand. Finally, tighten the pivot bolt. The bottom run of the V-belt should only deflect up and down by about 3/8” with moderate hand pressure applied mid-span. If it moves more than that, take another shot at tensioning the belt. It takes some effort A new V-belt will stretch initially. Once the car is back on the road, check the pump belt’s tension frequently until it settles down. Re-tension as required Next to timing belt tension, the water pump belt tension is the most critical. If the belt gets loose, it will not drive the water pump properly, and there’s

a very real risk the engine may over-heat. The biggest downside is a blown head gasket and/or warped head. The greatest probability of the belt going loose comes shortly after the installation of a new belt, as the belt takes it’s initial stretch. Check it often and re-tension as required Make it a habit to check the belt tension whenever you’re under the car. Install the alternator and it’s triangle support bracket (if the engine has one). At the alternator pivot mount, there are supposed to be washers between the alternator’s legs and the large mounting boss from the engine/ auxiliary housing. It’s not easy to slip the washers into the gap while holding the alternator and sliding the bolt in (it’s a 3-handed task), but don’t skip the washers. Install and tension the V-belt. The end of a WonderBar (the type of pry bar that’s made of flat stock rather than bar stock) will fit into the gap at the pivot point between the alternator and the mounting boss from the engine.

Have a helper reach across the engine bay from the left side and pull on the bar to tension the belt while you tighten the bolts. On the tension stay, be sure to tighten both bolts, top and bottom. Once they’re tight, tighten the alternator’s pivot bolt. Re-connect the large brown output wire to the back of the alternator, as well as the smaller control wire. Inspect the A/C clutch control wire to make sure it wasn’t dislodged during the project. Install a new thermostat & gasket, the thermostat housing and the outlet hose. Use Hylomar on the thermostat housing/ gasket, and on the hose connection. On a Bosch fuel injected 910, re-install the black plastic fuel lines using new crush washers on all the banjo bolt fittings. Double check your work. Connect the battery cable. For safety’s sake, do not re-connect the battery until after the project is completed the last step. That’s especially important on the Bosch injected cars from which the black fuel lines have been

removed. Some fuel will likely be spilled, and the ends of the fuel ports are open. That’s no time to have a stray spark flying about. Regards, Tim Engel Lotus Owners Oftha North, (LOON) Minnesota, USA